The Red Savina pepper is a cultivar of the habanero chili (Capsicum chinense Jacquin), which has been selectively bred to produce hotter, heavier, and larger fruit. Frank Garcia of GNS Spices, in Walnut, California, is credited with being the developer of the Red Savina habanero. The exact method
The Red Savina pepper is a cultivar of the habanero chili (Capsicum chinense Jacquin), which has been selectively bred to produce hotter, heavier, and larger fruit. Frank Garcia of GNS Spices, in Walnut, California, is credited with being the developer of the Red Savina habanero. The exact method Garcia used to select the hottest strains is not publicly known.
The Red Savina is protected by the U.S. Plant Variety Protection Act (PVP #9200255).
In February 2007, the Red Savina chili was displaced in Guinness World Records as the hottest chili in the world by the Naga Jolokia pepper. The Red Savina held the record from 1994 until 2006.
Red Savina peppers were reported to a score up to 577,000 on the Scoville scale, but this oft-quoted figure was never verified; a comparison experiment carried out by a group of researchers including Regents Professor Paul W. Bosland at the Chile Pepper Institute at New Mexico State University in 2005 revealed an average heat level of 248,556 SHUs for Red Savina habaneros. Orange Habaneros may get as hot as 357,729 SHUs, but the average Orange Habanero is around 200,000 SHUs. The average Bhut Jolokia pepper is 1,019,687 SHus.
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<h2><strong>Navy beans Seeds</strong></h2>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>Price for Package of 40 seeds.</strong></span></h2>
<p>Navy beans are not navy in color. In fact, they are small white beans. Why call them navy beans? Navy beans were named as such because they were a staple food in the United States Navy during the early 20th century. Navy beans and other dried beans are known as Phaseolus vulgaris and are referred to as “common beans” because they all come from a common bean ancestor that originated in Peru. Navy beans are about the size of a pea, mild in flavor and one of 13,000 species in the family of legumes. They can be found canned and dried in bulk or prepackaged. The United States Navy was no doubt looking for a low cost.</p>
<p>Navy beans can sometimes be found under the name French navy bean or, more commonly, Michigan pea bean.</p>
<p>The Navy bean is one of the best cooking beans around. Great flavor and taste. A small, delicious, white bean that can be used in soup or for baking. Will not “mush up” when cooked. Great bean for cooking and offers great flavor. The plant is about 60 centimeters high and resistant to beans' diseases.</p>
<p>Pods are about 12 cm long with 5-6 beans inside. Navy beans typically require between 85-90 days of growth before harvesting</p>
<h3><strong>Growing Guide</strong></h3>
<h3><strong>GROWING NOTES</strong></h3>
<p>Beans generally do not respond well to transplanting, and are usually direct sown around or just after the last spring frost. The most important point about growing beans is not to plant them too early. They will rot in cool, damp soil. Even so, many beans require a long growing season of 80 days or more. To get an earlier start, you can put down black plastic, to warm the soil.</p>
<p>Most beans should be sown with the eye of the been facing downward, 1-2" deep, approximately 4-6" apart, with 24" or more between rows. The ideal site will be sunny, well-drained, moderately fertile, and slightly acidic (pH 6.0-7.0). Additionally, bean plants should be well-ventilated to promote proper development and deter mildew or mold that can trouble plants. Beans should not be grown in the same spot more than once every four years, and can be mutually beneficial with corn, strawberries and cucumber. Avoid planting beans near onion or fennel.</p>
<p>Plant bush beans in either rows or blocks, with 4-6 inches between each seed. Plant the seeds 1-2 inches deep and be sure to water the soil immediately and regularly, until it sprouts. Pole beans will need some type of support to grow on. Be sure the trellis, teepee, fence or whatever is in place before you seed. Plant seeds at a rate of about 3-6 seeds per teepee or every 6 inches apart.</p>
<h3><strong>MAINTAINING</strong></h3>
<p>When watering, try to avoid getting the leaves wet as this can promote fungus or other damaging conditions that beans can be susceptible to. Most types of beans are somewhat drought resistant, but check the surface of the soil frequently and water when the top layer has become dried out.</p>
<p>Once established, beans generally will not require fertilizing and will generate their own nitrogen. However, if the leaves of young plants are pale this is an indication of nitrogen deficiency and starts can be fertilized with with fish emulsion or other natural nitrogen rich fertilizer.</p>
<p>Bush beans begin producing before pole beans and often come in all at</p>
<p>once. Staggered planting, every 2 weeks, will keep your bush beans going longer. Pole beans need time to grow their vines, before they start setting beans. The pole bean crop will continue to produce for a month or two.</p>
<p>Pole beans may need some initial help in climbing. Keep the bean plants well watered. Mulch helps keep their shallow roots moist. Long producing pole beans will benefit from a feeding or a side dressing of compost or manure about half way through their growing season.</p>
<h3><strong>Harvesting Guide</strong></h3>
<h3><strong>HARVESTING</strong></h3>
<p>Harvesting beans is an ongoing process. You can start to harvest anytime, but gardeners usually wait until the beans begin to firm up and can be snapped. They are generally about as think as a pencil then. Don't wait too long, because beans can become overgrown and tough almost overnight. Harvest by gently pulling each bean from the vine or by snapping off the vine end, if you are going to be using the beans right away.</p>
<p>Depending on whether the bean is a snap, shell, or dry variety will impact when and how the bean should be harvested.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Snap beans are harvested while the pod and enclosed seeds are still relatively immature. Compared to the other two types of beans, snap beans have the smallest window for an ideal crop. Beans that are harvested too early will not develop the proper flavor and texture. On the other hand, beans that are allowed to develop on the plant too long will be tough and somewhat unpalatable. Perhaps the best simple indicator for snap beans is the diameter of the pods. Generally, most varieties will yield the best snap beans with a diameter between ⅛-1/4". Maybe the best way to determine suitability for harvest is to sample a pod or two before making a complete harvest. It is worth noting that many varieties of snap beans that are allowed to develop completely also make good dry beans.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Shell beans are harvested at a later time than snap beans, once the pods have started to fill out and the enclosed seeds developing inside are apparent. Beans of such varieties are removed from pods and are often eaten fresh, but are sometimes dried.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Dry beans are not harvested until the pods and enclosed seeds have reached complete maturity, and will often require threshing to remove extraneous pod material. When growing dry beans, it is especially important that growing plants have plenty of space and ventilation so that pods will dry out. If experiencing a spell of rain late in the season once pods have matured, plants can be removed from ground and hung upside down indoors to allow dessication to continue.</p>
<h3><strong>SAVING SEEDS</strong></h3>
<p>It is a suggested that you earmark a couple of plants at the beginning of the season for seed saving. Don't pick ANY pods from them to eat - just pick the crisp brown pods at the end of the season. Don't feed them, or water them unless it is very dry - as this can encourage leafy growth rather than pod development. There is no point in picking green pods as the seeds are not mature enough at this stage.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Did you know you can save the roots, overwinter in a frost-free place, and replant next year? Runner beans are perennial, but are frost sensitive, so die back in our climate. However, if the roots are dug up and kept in suitable conditions, the plants often get away early and crop faster. If you grow a lot of beans, this may not be a practical option, but you could try it with one or two plants perhaps. Store the roots in a frost-free place, buried in slightly moist sand or leafmould, or something similar.</p>
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<h2 class=""><strong>White mustard Seeds (Sinapis alba)</strong></h2>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;" class=""><strong>Price for Package of 180 (1g) seeds.</strong></span></h2>
<div><b>White mustard</b><span> (</span><i>Sinapis alba</i><span>) is an </span>annual plant<span> of the family </span>Brassicaceae<span>. It is sometimes also referred to as </span><i>Brassica alba</i><span> or </span><i>B. hirta</i><span>. Grown for its seeds, used to make the condiment </span>mustard<span>, as fodder crop, or as a </span>green manure<span>, it is now widespread worldwide, although it probably originated in the Mediterranean region.</span></div>
<h2><span class="mw-headline" id="Description">Description</span></h2>
<p>White mustard is an annual, growing to 70 cm high with stalkless pinnate leaves, similar to<span> </span><i>Sinapis arvensis</i>.<sup id="cite_ref-1" class="reference"></sup></p>
<h2><span class="mw-headline" id="Distribution">Distribution</span></h2>
<p>Most common in Europe, North Africa, the Middle East and Central Asia, it can be found worldwide. It has been found as far north as Greenland,<sup id="cite_ref-2" class="reference">[2]</sup><span> </span>and naturalized throughout<span> </span>Great Britain<span> </span>and<span> </span>Ireland.<sup id="cite_ref-3" class="reference"></sup></p>
<h2><span class="mw-headline" id="Culinary_uses">Culinary uses</span></h2>
<p>The yellow flowers of the plant produce hairy seed pods, with each pod containing roughly a half dozen seeds. These seeds are harvested just prior to the pods becoming ripe and bursting.</p>
<p>White mustard seeds are hard round seeds, usually around 1.0 to 1.5 mm (0.039 to 0.059 in) in diameter,<sup id="cite_ref-4" class="reference">[4]</sup><span> </span>with a color ranging from beige or yellow to light brown. They can be used whole for pickling or toasted for use in dishes. When ground and mixed with other ingredients, a paste or more standard<span> </span>condiment<span> </span>can be produced.<span> </span><i>Sinapis alba</i><span> </span>is used to make the commonplace yellow table mustard, with additional yellow coloring provided by<span> </span>turmeric<span> </span>in some formulations.</p>
<p>The seeds contain<span> </span>sinalbin, which is a<span> </span>thioglycoside<span> </span>responsible for their pungent taste. White mustard has fewer<span> </span>volatile oils<span> </span>and the flavor is considered to be milder than that produced by<span> </span>black mustard<span> </span>seeds.<sup id="cite_ref-5" class="reference"></sup><sup id="cite_ref-6" class="reference"></sup></p>
<p>In Greece, the plant's leaves can be eaten during the winter, before it blooms. Greeks call it<span> </span><i>vrouves (βρούβα)</i><span> </span>or<span> </span><i>lapsana (λαψάνα)</i>. The blooming season of this plant (February–March) is celebrated with the Mustard Festival, a series of festivities in the wine country of California (Napa and Sonoma Counties).</p>
<h2><span class="mw-headline" id="Other_uses">Other uses</span></h2>
<p>White mustard is commonly used as a cover and green manure crop in Europe (between UK and Ukraine). A large number of varieties exist, e.g. in<span> </span>Germany,<span> </span>Netherlands, mainly differing in lateness of flowering and resistance against white beet-cyst nematode (<i>Heterodera schachtii</i>). Farmers prefer late-flowering varieties, which do not produce seeds, as they may become weeds in the subsequent year. Early vigour is important to cover the soil quickly to suppress weeds and protect the soil against erosion. In rotations with<span> </span>sugar beets, suppression of the white beet-cyst nematode is an important trait. Resistant white mustard varieties reduce nematode populations by 70-90%.</p>
<h2><strong>Radish Saxa Treib Seeds (Raphanus sativus)</strong></h2>
<h2 class=""><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>Price for Package of 1g (100) seeds.</strong></span></h2>
<div>An early, sweet variety of radish producing brilliant red, round roots which will stay crisp over a long period. The radish (Raphanus sativus) is an edible root vegetable of the Brassicaceae family that was domesticated in Europe, in pre-Roman times. They are grown and consumed throughout the world. Radishes have numerous varieties, varying in size, color and duration of required cultivation time. There are some radishes that are grown for their seeds; oilseed radishes are grown, as the name implies, for oil production. Radish can sprout from seed to small plant in as little as 3 days.</div>
<div> </div>
<div><strong>History</strong></div>
<div>The descriptive Greek name of the genus Raphanus means "quickly appearing" and refers to the rapid germination of these plants. Raphanistrum, from the same Greek root, is an old name once used for this genus. The common name "radish" is derived from Latin radix (root). The radish has been used over many centuries.</div>
<div>Although the radish was a well-established crop in Hellenistic and Roman times, which leads to the assumption that it was brought into cultivation at an earlier time, Zohary and Hopf note that "there are almost no archeological records available" to help determine its earlier history and domestication. Wild forms of the radish and its relatives, the mustards and turnip, can be found over west Asia and Europe, suggesting that their domestication took place somewhere in that area. However Zohary and Hopf conclude, "Suggestions as to the origins of these plants are necessarily based on linguistic considerations."</div>
<div></div>
<div><strong>Cultivation</strong></div>
<div><strong>Growing radish plants</strong></div>
<div>Radishes grow best in full sun and light, sandy loams with pH 6.5–7.0. They are in season from April to June and from October to January in most parts of North America; in Europe and Japan they are available year-round due to the plurality of varieties grown.</div>
<div>Summer radishes mature rapidly, with many varieties germinating in 3–7 days, and reaching maturity in three to four weeks. Harvesting periods can be extended through repeated plantings, spaced a week or two apart.</div>
<div>As with other root crops, tilling the soil to loosen it up and remove rocks helps the roots grow. However, radishes are used in no-till farming to help reverse compaction.</div>
<div>Most soil types will work, though sandy loams are particularly good for winter and spring crops, while soils that form a hard crust can impair growth. The depth at which seeds are planted affects the size of the root, from 1 cm (0.4 in) deep recommended for small radishes to 4 cm (1.6 in) for large radishes.</div>
<div>Radishes are a common garden crop in the U.S., and the fast harvest cycle makes them a popular choice for children's gardens.</div>
<div>In temperate climates, it's customary to plant radishes every two weeks from early spring until a few weeks before the first frost, except during periods of hot weather. In warm-weather climates, they are normally planted in the fall.</div>
<div>Companion plant</div>
<div>Radishes serve as companion plants for many other species, because of their ability to function as a trap crop against pests like flea beetles. These pests will attack the leaves, but the root remains healthy and can be harvested later.</div>
<div></div>
<div><strong>Varieties</strong></div>
<div>Broadly speaking, radishes can be categorized into four main types (summer, fall, winter, and spring) and a variety of shapes lengths, colors, and sizes, such as red, pink, white, gray-black or yellow radishes, with round or elongated roots that can grow longer than a parsnip.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Spring or summer radishes</div>
<div>European radishes (Raphanus Sativus)</div>
<div>Sometimes referred to as European radishes or spring radishes if they're planted in cooler weather, summer radishes are generally small and have a relatively short 3–4 week cultivation time.</div>
<div></div>
<div>The April Cross is a giant white radish hybrid that bolts very slowly.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Bunny Tail is an heirloom variety from Italy, where it is known as 'Rosso Tondo A Piccola Punta Bianca'. It is slightly oblong, mostly red, with a white tip.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Cherry Belle is a bright red-skinned round variety with a white interior. It is familiar in North American supermarkets.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Champion is round and red-skinned like the Cherry Belle, but with slightly larger roots, up to about 5 cm (2 in), and a milder flavor.</div>
<div>Red King has a mild flavor, with good resistance to club root, a problem that can arise from poor drainage.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Sicily Giant is a large heirloom variety from Sicily. It can reach up to two inches in diameter.</div>
<div>Snow Belle is an all-white variety of radish, similar in shape to the Cherry Belle.</div>
<div>White Icicle or just Icicle is a white carrot-shaped variety, around 10–12 cm (4–5 in) long, dating back to the 16th century. It slices easily, and has better than average resistance to pithiness.</div>
<div>French Breakfast is an elongated red-skinned radish with a white splash at the root end. It is typically slightly milder than other summer varieties, but is among the quickest to turn pithy.</div>
<div>Plum Purple a purple-fuchsia radish that tends to stay crisp longer than average.</div>
<div>Gala and Roodbol are two varieties popular in the Netherlands in a breakfast dish, thinly sliced on buttered bread.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Easter Egg is not an actual variety, but a mix of varieties with different skin colors,[6] typically including white, pink, red, and purple radishes. Sold in markets or seed packets under the name, the seed mixes can extend harvesting duration from a single planting, as different varieties may mature at different times.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Winter varieties</div>
<div>Daikon</div>
<div>Black Spanish or Black Spanish Round occur in both round and elongated forms, and are sometimes simply called the black radish or known by the French name Gros Noir d'Hiver. It dates in Europe to 1548, and was a common garden variety in England and France during the early 19th century. It has a rough black skin with hot-flavored white flesh, is round or irregularly pear shaped, and grows to around 10 cm (4 in) in diameter.</div>
<div>Daikon refers to a wide variety of winter radishes from Asia. While the Japanese name daikon has been adopted in English, it is also sometimes called the Japanese radish, Chinese radish, Oriental radish or mooli (in India and South Asia). Daikon commonly have elongated white roots, although many varieties of daikon exist. One well known variety is April Cross, with smooth white roots. The New York Times describes Masato Red and Masato Green varieties as extremely long, well suited for fall planting and winter storage. The Sakurajima daikon is a hot-flavored variety which is typically grown to around 10 kg (22 lb), but which can grow to 30 kg (66 lb) when left in the ground.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Seed pod varieties</div>
<div>Radish fruits, also called pods</div>
<div></div>
<div>Radish seeds</div>
<div>The seeds of radishes grow in siliques (widely referred to as "pods"), following flowering that happens when left to grow past their normal harvesting period. The seeds are edible, and are sometimes used as a crunchy, spicy addition to salads. Some varieties are grown specifically for their seeds or seed pods, rather than their roots. The Rat-tailed radish, an old European variety thought to have come from East Asia centuries ago, has long, thin, curly pods which can exceed 20 cm (8 in) in length. In the 17th century, the pods were often pickled and served with meat. The München Bier variety supplies spicy seed pods that are sometimes served raw as an accompaniment to beer in Germany.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Nutritional value</div>
<div>Radish, raw, root only</div>
<div>Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)</div>
<div>Energy 66 kJ (16 kcal)</div>
<div>Carbohydrates 3.40 g</div>
<div>- Sugars 1.86 g</div>
<div>- Dietary fiber 1.6 g</div>
<div>Fat 0.10 g</div>
<div>Protein 0.68 g</div>
<div>Thiamine (vit. B1) 0.012 mg (1%)</div>
<div>Riboflavin (vit. B2) 0.039 mg (3%)</div>
<div>Niacin (vit. B3) 0.254 mg (2%)</div>
<div>Pantothenic acid (B5) 0.165 mg (3%)</div>
<div>Vitamin B6 0.071 mg (5%)</div>
<div>Folate (vit. B9) 25 μg (6%)</div>
<div>Vitamin C 14.8 mg (18%)</div>
<div>Calcium 25 mg (3%)</div>
<div>Iron 0.34 mg (3%)</div>
<div>Magnesium 10 mg (3%)</div>
<div>Phosphorus 20 mg (3%)</div>
<div>Potassium 233 mg (5%)</div>
<div>Zinc 0.28 mg (3%)</div>
<div>Percentages are relative to</div>
<div>US recommendations for adults.</div>
<div>Source: USDA Nutrient Database</div>
<div>Radishes are rich in ascorbic acid, folic acid, and potassium. They are a good source of vitamin B6, riboflavin, magnesium, copper, and calcium. One cup of sliced red radish bulbs provides approximately 20 cal, largely from carbohydrates.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Uses</div>
<div>Cooking</div>
<div>The most commonly eaten portion is the napiform taproot, although the entire plant is edible and the tops can be used as a leaf vegetable. It can also be eaten as a sprout.</div>
<div>The bulb of the radish is usually eaten raw, although tougher specimens can be steamed. The raw flesh has a crisp texture and a pungent, peppery flavor, caused by glucosinolates and the enzyme myrosinase which combine when chewed to form allyl isothiocyanates, also present in mustard, horseradish, and wasabi.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Radish leaves are sometimes used in recipes, like potato soup or as a sauteed side dish. They are also found to benefit homemade juices; some recipes even calling for them in fruit based mixutres.</div>
<div>Radishes may be used in salads, as well as in many European dishes.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Industry</div>
<div>The seeds of the Raphanus sativus species can be pressed to extract seed oil. Wild radish seeds contain up to 48% oil content, and while not suitable for human consumption the oil is a potential source of biofuel. The oilseed radish grows well in cool climates.</div>
<div></div>
<div>Culture</div>
<div>Citizens of Oaxaca, Mexico, celebrate the radish in a festival called Noche de los Rábanos (Night of the Radishes) on December 23 as a part of Christmas celebrations. Locals carve religious and popular figures out of radishes and display them in the town square.</div>
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<h2 class=""><strong>Cayenne Chili Seeds (Mixed Colors)</strong></h2>
<h2><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong>Price for Package of 10 or 50 seeds. </strong></span></h2>
<div>Strong upright plants produce large-shouldered, wrinkled, tapered, and curved fruit ranging from 15 to 20 cm long by 3 cm in diameter with medium-thick flesh. <br><br>The fruit color is dark green turning to yellow, orange, red when ripe. 30,000 - 40,000 SHU's. <br><br>Matures in 70-80 days.</div>
<div><br>Tips on Growing Cayenne Long Slim Chili Pepper Seeds:</div>
<div>GROWING SEEDLINGS:</div>
<div>Sow Chili Pepper seeds in shallow flats, 4 seeds/in., 1/4" deep, in late February or March or about 8-12 weeks prior to transplanting outdoors.</div>
<div>If possible, maintain soil temperatures 80-85°F (27-29°C). Pepper seed germinates very slowly in cooler soil, and may very well rot before they germinate.</div>
<div>Well-drained, fertile soil with abundant amounts of phosphorus, magnesium and calcium is best. Peppers do well without much added nitrogen. They are also more tolerant of acid soil than many other Garden Vegetables. Chili Peppers are less likely than bell or sweet peppers to object to the low level of aeration in heavy clay soils. Just remember to water them well in hot and dry weather.</div>
<div>When the first true leaves just show, transplant 2-3" apart in flats or 2" cell-type containers.</div>
<div>The use of 2" or larger cells will produce larger plants with better-developed root systems.</div>
<div>Harden off the pepper plants one to two weeks before your last frost by setting them outdoors, if the plants have blossoms cover the tomato plants at night until the night temperature is warmer.</div>
<div>Grow plants at approx. 70°F (21°C) day and 60°F (16°C) nights.</div>
<div>Do not let people that smoke handle your peppers or pick your peppers before they wash their hands. The virus that causes tobacco mosaic which will affect peppers, survives the cigarette manufacturing processes.</div>
<div>COLD TREATMENT:</div>
<div>Exposing the seedlings to controlled cold treatments can increase the number of flowers and fruits.</div>
<div>When the third true leaf appears, grow the plants at a minimum night temp. of 53-55°F (12-13°C) for 4 weeks.</div>
<div>The plants should receive full sunlight.</div>
<div>After 4 weeks adjust temperature to 70°F (21°C) day and night. If this technique is used, peppers should be seeded 1-2 weeks earlier than usual.</div>
<div>TRANSPLANTING:</div>
<div>Transplant out after frost when the soil is warm and weather is settled.</div>
<div>Ideal seedlings have buds, but no open flowers.</div>
<div>When setting out peppers plants I bury them 2 inches deeper than what they were in the pots or trays. Set plants 12-18" apart in rows 24-36" apart, or 2 rows on poly/paper mulch, 18" between plants.</div>
<div>Water-in transplants using a high phosphorus solution.</div>
<div>Use Row Covers: Cold weather is buffered and earliness increased by using plastic mulch, especially in combination with a slotted row cover or lightweight fabric row cover supported by wire hoops.</div>
<div>
<p>Remove row covers when in sunny weather above 85°F (29°C) to prevent heat damage.</p>
</div>
The Red Savina pepper is a cultivar of the habanero chili (Capsicum chinense Jacquin), which has been selectively bred to produce hotter, heavier, and larger fruit. Frank Garcia of GNS Spices, in Walnut, California, is credited with being the developer of the Red Savina habanero. The exact method